This morning it was another reasonably early meeting with Mike after breakfast. Today were were off to explore the Reykjanes Peninsula. We drove through Mike's home town of Hafnarfjordur and took the scenic route past some lakes including Lake Kleifarvatn a popular trout fishing lake whose water level dropped over 10 feet after earthquakes created new fissures and drained the lake before making our first stop at the Krysuvik hot springs and boiling mud pots. This really brought Iceland's reputation of being the land of ice and fire to life. We got to walk along a trail and boardwalk over natural mud pots and hot springs fuming with steam. The smell of sulphur was certainly in the air. We could hear the hiss of the steam and the bubbling. The colours of the lava and minerals were beautiful and all of this was surrounded but the remnants of snow falls.
We drove on to Graenavatn which was another beautiful glacial lake. On the way there were many interesting things to see including the somewhat lunar landscape again and rack after rack of fish being left outside to dry and cure - boy could you smell them before you could see them!!!!
We also visited hot springs at Gunnuhver which the boys really enjoyed as Mike told us the story that many years ago there was a woman called Gunna who people thought had used magic to cause the death of the pastor and his wife because they did not return her cooking kettle. Gunna liked yarn and could not resist it. Another priest set a trap for Gunna; she followed the thread from a ball of yarn and fell into the hot spring. They say that ever since the ghost of Gunna can be seen in the steam of the hot spring.
Nearby we saw the power of the ocean at bird nesting sites and a statue to recognise the last great large bird from Iceland - the Great Awk - which sadly is now extinct.
We drove on to the fishing town of Reykjanesbae to see its busy harbour and a replica Viking Ship "Islendingur" which sailed with a crew of 60 people to North America in 2000 to commemorate the millennium of Leaf the Lucky Viking's fist voyage to the new world.
We had time for a quick visit to see the President of Iceland's home - which remarkably you can drive right up to and even attend church services in a chapel built in front of his house - all with no guards. After this we had time for a quick lunch before Mike drive us to our long awaited horse riding. It was here that we had to say goodbye to Mike. We were so glad that we had booked him as he made our stay relaxed and stress free and we saw an learnt so much. It was sad to say goodbye.
We arrived at Islenski Hesturinn - a small family run horse riding business just outside Reykjevik- and met Sverinn and his 2 daughter aged 9 and 7. The girls were very excited to see the boys and were keen to show them their new foal. The eldest girl, Hekla, was beginning to learn English at school. Once their mother, Begga, arrived she spoke with us about the Icelandic horses and what separates them from all other horses. They have 5 gaits including the toolt and the flying pace which enable them to cover the rough terrain in the most comfortable way possible for the rider. No other horse in the world can do the toolt despite efforts to teach them or to cross-breed them. Given their special skills if an Icelandic horse leaves Iceland to compete etc it can never ever return.
Begga was brilliant. She knew so much information about the horses and clearly loved them. She also spent a lot of time explaining how best to control the horses and safety information including letting us all practice our reign skills using our milk can horses. we suited up in waterproof clothes while Sverinn and the girls chose our horses and saddled them up.
Once us, and the horses, were ready we went out into the yard, adjured the stirrup lengths and mounted up. Begga wanted to see if the boys could manage the horses safely before deciding whether they would do a ring lesson only or be able to go out onto the lava fields. Everyone did really well so in no time at all it was decided we should leave the stables and head off up the road to their bigger ring. Sverinn and Begga led the way with their girls also coming with us.
The boys did so well. Ryan needed to have his stirrup length readjusted and at times found it hard to have the strength to hold his reigns short and tight but he did it. As soon as we got off the road Begga immediately got all of the horses to go into the toolt as she wanted us all to experience the unique gait of the Icelandic horse. David and I both agreed we have not experienced anything like it - it is like trotting but you sit so smoothly in the saddle. Both the boys were able to do the toolt with no problems. Given they were doing so well Begga offered us the choice of a big ring lesson riding faster or to go out on to the lave fields - of course there was no decision to be made, we all wanted to get out on to the lava fields.
The girls went back to the stables and Begga, the 4 of us and Sverinn went out into the lava fields. My horse was a little uncooperative at times and to show me who was boss she made sure my right shin felt the full force of the railings of the metal bridge we needed to cross. Even in spite of this which was very painful it was great fun and the scenery was beautiful. We stopped at places and Begga explained what we could see and the history of the lava fields. Poor Ryan found his hands were getting sore so Begga attached his horse to a lead rope and he rode next to her.
After a bit more toolting unfortunately we had to head back to the stables. The girl met us on the way and rode the final parts back with us. Not far from the stable my horse got spooked and bolted. I was very pleased that I managed to stay calm and pull her up very quickly without falling off. We recovered quickly and headed back. The horses were keen to get unsaddled and to be able to have a good roll on the pebbles. David's horse was expert at playing "dead horse".
Once we were changed and it was time to go Begga and the girls drove us back to the hotel. The sounds of laughter in the back of the van were beautiful. Language really is no barrier to kids as the boys and Begga's girls had a great time playing together. They may stay in touch as pen pals.
After a brief break we headed out to find somewhere for dinner. We found a little Thai restaurant recommended by Mike. It was fantastic and a wonderful way to finish our stay. It was then time to go back to the hotel to pack ready to fly out tomorrow.
No, I don't believe the Great Awk is extinct - one of my clients resembles that bird quite closely LOL!
ReplyDeleteLove your blogs!
Glen.